A Beginner’s Guide for School & Youth Theater Costumes

If you’re new to sewing costumes—interfacing can feel very confusing. This guide explains interfacing simply and encourages learning one type at a time.

Start soft. Add structure only as needed.

Most costume problems come from too much stiffness, not too little.

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STEP 1: START WITH LEARNING ONE FOUNDATION INTERFACING

If you buy only one interfacing…make it Fusible Woven (Pellon SF101)

This is your base layer. 

• Adds structure without stiffness

• Keeps fabric feeling like fabric

• Works for bodices, vests, collars, waistbands, and more

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STEP 2: ADD STRUCTURE ONLY IF YOU NEED IT

Ask…does this piece need to be crisp or stiff on stage?

• Needs crisp shape (uniforms, waistbands, panels) → Add medium non-woven interfacing (Pellon 808)

• Needs to stand up or look rigid (crowns, armor, belts)→ Add heavy non-woven (Pellon Peltex 71f)

Hint: Layering over SF101 keeps the outer fabric looking smooth & polished 

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STEP 3: USE FOAM FOR DIMENSION THAT MOVES

If something needs shape + softness (hats, props, armor elements). One-sided fusible foam adds structure without turning costumes into cardboard (Pellon Foam FF78F1). This is especially helpful for youth theater where comfort matters.

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STEP 4: USE FUSIBLE WEB FOR FAST DETAILS (I rarely use this)

For appliqué, patches, and symbols (Vlieseline Vliesofix)

• Fusible web saves time

• Keeps edges clean

• Adds no bulk